Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times
Recently I received an e-mail from a reader describing a kugel made with carrots and quinoa that she’d tasted at a buffet dinner. “It was delicious served at room temperature, cut into cubes, which were firm in texture, sweet but not overly, and prepared with quinoa,” she wrote. “I am wondering if you might be willing and able to conjure up the ingredients to make this particular kugel incorporating quinoa.”
Since I’m always looking for new ideas for quinoa and had never thought of using it in a kugel, I jumped at this request. I researched kugels, and found that the interpretation of what a kugel actually should or can be is very broad. The name comes from the word for pudding, but all of the recipes I looked at – some sweet, some savory, many made with noodles or potatoes but many without – could also be described as gratins. I thought the idea of substituting grains for noodles was a very good one, because I never like the way the noodles on the surface of a kugel dry out.
I ended up making mostly savory kugels, though I did make one delicious sweet millet kugel, which immediately became a popular breakfast and snack in my house. I combined quinoa with cooked carrots and caraway (probably not the flavor my reader was looking for, but delicious, and I’ve added a sweet variation), and with cauliflower and cumin. I used millet in the sweet kugel but also combined it with cabbage and onions in a delicious savory one. And I made a kugel with grated sweet potatoes and apples that I hope will find its way to some Thanksgiving tables.
Quinoa and Carrot Kugel
A request from a reader for a quinoa and carrot kugel inspired this week of recipes. I have no idea if this caraway-scented version resembles the kugel she enjoyed at a reception (see the variation below for one that might resemble it more), but it was a big hit in my household.
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/2 medium onion, finely chopped
1/2 cup quinoa
1 1/4 cups water
Salt to taste
1 pound carrots, peeled and cut into 3-inch-long sticks
1/2 cup low-fat cottage cheese
3 eggs
1 scant teaspoon caraway seeds, lightly crushed
Freshly ground pepper
1. Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a medium saucepan and add the onion. Cook, stirring, until the onion is just about tender, 3 to 5 minutes, and add the quinoa. Cook, stirring, for another 2 to 3 minutes, until the quinoa begins to smell toasty and the onion is tender. Add the water and salt to taste and bring to a boil. Add the carrots, cover, reduce the heat and simmer 15 to 20 minutes, until the quinoa and carrots are tender and the grains display a threadlike spiral. Uncover and use tongs to transfer the carrot sticks to a bowl. If any water remains in the pot, drain the quinoa through a strainer, then return to the pot. Place a dish towel over the pot, then return the lid and let sit undisturbed for 10 to 15 minutes.
Note: If it’s easier for you, you can steam or simmer the carrots separately, for 10 to 15 minutes until tender.
2. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 375 degrees and oil a 2-quart baking dish or gratin.
3. In a food processor fitted with the steel blade, purée the cooked carrots. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, add the cottage cheese and purée until the mixture is smooth. Add the eggs, salt (I suggest about 1/2 teaspoon), pepper and caraway, and purée until smooth. Scrape into a large mixing bowl. Add the quinoa and mix together thoroughly. Scrape into the oiled baking dish. Drizzle the remaining oil over the top and place in the oven.
4. Bake 40 to 45 minutes, until the top is lightly browned. Remove from the oven and allow to cool for at least 15 minutes before serving. Serve warm or at room temperature, cut into squares or wedges.
Yield: 6 servings
Advance preparation: The quinoa can be prepared through Step 1 up to 3 days ahead (it also freezes well). The kugel will keep for 3 days in the refrigerator. Reheat in a medium oven.
Variation: Sweet Quinoa and Carrot Kugel
Omit the onion and the caraway. Add 1/4 cup mild-flavored honey or agave nectar and 1/2 teaspoon vanilla, and blend with the cottage cheese and eggs.
Nutritional information per serving (6 servings): 177 calories; 8 grams fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 2 grams polyunsaturated fat; 4 grams monounsaturated fat; 94 milligrams cholesterol; 18 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams dietary fiber; 141 milligrams sodium (does not include salt to taste); 8 grams protein
Martha Rose Shulman is the author of “The Very Best of Recipes for Health.”
Recipes for Health: Quinoa and Carrot Kugel
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Recipes for Health: Quinoa and Carrot Kugel
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Recipes for Health: Quinoa and Carrot Kugel
